FAQ

Paper-backed veneer is real wood veneer permanently bonded to a paper backing. This backing is applied to keep intact the individual wood veneers used to make up the full width and length of the sheet.

The only differences between the 1/40 – .050” paper backed veneers and the 1/25” – 1/30” wood backed veneers are the thickness and the type of back. The extra thickness of the wood backed veneers, coupled with the wood construction of the back, give added strength and stability as compared to the paper backed veneers. Both products work perfectly well, but wood backer is sometimes preferred over paper backer for thickness, especially when covering a surface that is curved or not as smooth as may be desired.

No, you do not remove the backer and won’t be able to. The only exception to this is the PSA pressure sensitive adhesive also called peel and stick. This backer will have printed logo like 3M on it and will peel off quite easily.

PSA is pressure sensitive adhesive, also called peel and stick which has a printed logo, like 3M on it. With his product, simply peel the protective liner and apply the product to a clean, smooth, well prepared surface. The higher density (like glass), the better. This option negates the need for messy, smelly adhesives and is much more reliable than is generally thought.

Usually this is done with contact cement, but there are many other methods that work just as well. Most of the other methods will require white or yellow wood glue and pressure. There are many great tutorial videos online for the different options. When using contact cement, the adhesive is put on both the back side of the veneer and the surface it is being applied to.

Backed veneers are easy to cut with utility knife and routers and many more tools. A straight edge can be used to line up most of these tools. Paper backed veneer, being thinner, will be easier to cut than wood backed veneer and will cut cleaner. But both can be successfully cut and trimmed and sanded to perfection.

Wood veneer will generally last as long as the finish put on the veneer. Once the finish is gone, the product will be exposed to elements that will eventually peel and otherwise desecrate the product. Finishes will need to be redone and the schedule for that will depend on the exposure to different elements.

Backed veneers are made from leaves or tiles that are sliced very thin as they come off of a log by a veneer slicer. So longwood veneers will have seams in the vertical direction and burl wood or planked veneers may have seams in both the vertical and horizontal directions. These flitches or leaves will be put together by machine and sometimes by hand to make what is called a “face” veneer. This face veneer is then pressed and applied to a backer which is sanded and put through a machine that breaks the grain in order to provide a flexible product.

Most backed veneer is limited to 5’ feet in width and 12’ feet in length. A variety of sizes are available from 12” x 12” all the way through to the 5’ x 12’ feet sheets. 4’ x 8’ feet sheets are the most common and readily available size of backed veneer sheets.

Composite veneer, also referred to as reconstituted (recon) or engineered wood, is made in a relatively complicated process of cutting and dyeing the wood so that each sheet is consistent in grain and color. This product has steadily grown in popularity as its acceptance has increased through many years of successful applications and projects. This type of wood is not necessarily a less expensive option as it is a design option. Composite wood finishes and laminates generally the same way as natural grown wood other than respect to the dye in the product if it is going to be stained.

With wood veneer, the first number listed is generally the number that tells the width across the grain. The second number reflects the length of the grain. So when it is 4’ x 8’ the grain will run vertically in the long 8’ direction. If the numbers were reversed to 8’ x 4’, it would be called cross grain or short grain. In this case, the grain would run in the shorter 4’ direction. As would be with a counter front, for example.

There are basically two types of catalyzed lacquer: Pre-catalyzed has the catalyst added at the factory, where with post-catalyzed, you add the catalyst at the time of use. Pre-cats are generally a little slower in dry time and cure because the catalyst is not as powerful, or “hot.” There are also blocker solvents in the lacquer that help prevent the chemical reaction from taking place in the can.This results in long pot lifes, 6 months or better, and no hassle with adding catalyst. In a word, convenience.Post-catalyzed lacquers dry and cure faster, and are better for high production uses. I think they cure to a little tougher film, but I cannot put a number on it. Pot lifes can range from a couple of days to a couple of weeks. Ultimately the chemistry is similar; it just depends on what your specific needs are, speed or convenience.